Safer Cycling Calgary News Blog

Make sure to wash off any dirt, bug guts, or mess on your bike, using warm soapy water. Include the seat, hand grips, tires (yes, between the spokes, too!) and frame. Pay extra attention to the chain and other drive train parts to ensure you remove all built up grease. Hint: bike chain degreaser works well, but dish soap can be used in a pinch. 

Dry dry dry your bike. Any moisture left on your bike can lead to rusting, corrosion or cause damage via freeze-thaw cycles. Ensure your bike is dry. 

Once you've cleaned off all the grime, and thoroughly dried your bike, ensure you properly lubricate all moving parts. Please do not use automobile motor oil for anything on your bike: get the appropriate lubricant for the parts of your bike you're lubricating.

Bike chain lube comes in numerous brands, for different applications and even with different materials: choose one that makes the most sense for your situation. Some lubes can also be used for brake and/or shifting cables but be sure to avoid getting any lubricant on the brake pads and wheel rims or discs themselves.

You may also want to apply some lubricant to things like seat post clamp, the seat post itself, and/or on things like wheel quick release skewers, basket attachments or things that you move regularly. 

If you haven't yet, consider making repairs now, either ordering necessary parts, doing them yourself and/or taking your bike to a bike mechanic. 

Many bike shops offer discounts in late winter, so make note of necessary repairs if you want to wait to see if you can get a discount on the necessary work. If you're not planning to ride over the winter, repairs can probably wait, but don't forget! 

This is an easy one: ensure the tires are properly inflated to the recommended pressure on the sides of the tires now, especially if your bike is going to be resting on it's tires all winter. 

Does your bike hibernate where the temperature fluctuates? If you don't already have a spare, get a spare tube that fits your bike as the temperature fluctuations and resulting air pressure changes in the tube may reveal weak/worn spots. Be prepared for the possibility of needing to change the tube completely before you ride in the spring can save you some hassle. 

Also check the condition of the exterior tires themselves: if there's worn spots, the treads are wearing unevenly or any damage, you should prepare to replace the tire. You can go ahead and do that now, or add it to the list of repairs necessary before spring. Cold temperatures may cause old or worn tires to crack completely so don't be afraid to replace your tires if you have any doubts about their condition, even if they haven't had a lot of use: the rubber dries out with time. 

Other considerations: 

• Remove batteries from electronics such as bike computers to prevent them from bursting due to temperature fluctuations or cold temperatures. (Take a photo of the odometer first!) You may also simply opt to store these components inside your home. 
• Ensure your bike is registered with Project 529 and consider adding a Shield (you can buy them here) to reduce the chances of theft and help recover your bike if it is stolen. 
• Find a safe place to store your bike for the winter: cold isn't a big concern, but both moisture and UV will degrade or destroy your bike. Inside your home is best, but if that's not possible, be sure to use good lock(s) and cover your bike with a tarp to keep it dry. 

Preparation is the key: if you fail to plan, you plan to fail. 

Make sure your bike is prepped for winter riding: 

• consider wider and/or studded tires. If you plan to ride all winter, investing in a fat bike might make sense for you, but it's not necessary, though a bike with narrow tires, like a road bike, may not be appropriate for safe winter riding. Winter tires are available for bikes, just like cars.
• ensure you have good lights for your bike, particularly a front light to light up the surface in front of you. Adding a second head light affixed to your helmet can also help but remember your front light is to illuminate your path, not for other road users: keep the flashing lights to your backside. 
• ensure your brakes are in excellent condition. Brake pads for cold weather can make a big difference, as some types become hard and brittle in the cold and won't work as well. If you have hydraulic brakes, ensure the fluid is full and have additional fluid (and a kit that works for your brakes) for any necessary top ups. 
• consider adding fenders to reduce the amount of junk that gets thrown up onto your body: carrying a block of semi-frozen spray on your back or dealing with a face full of salty slush will make you miserable.

Some people opt for a more simple bike for winter riding: fewer gears, flat pedals, fixed wheel axles, a seat bolt rather than quick release, etc. While these are not necessary, remember that road salt and cold temperatures are very hard on bike frames and components: your winter bike isn't going to last as long as your summer bike so you may not want to have a high-end, expensive bike with additional bells and whistles. 

Prepare yourself as well: 

• invest in water-proof, breathable clothing, good footwear, warm mitts and face coverings. This is not the time of year to put fashion over function. 
• prepare a change of clothes and a way to transport them that will keep them clean and dry, just in case. 
• plan for additional time to get to your destination, as well as additional time to take care of your bike once you've arrived (including your return home). 
• expect more breakdowns than you get in the summer: how will you complete your journey if one happens en route?
• ensure you carry your cell phone and that it is charged (remember, cold drains the battery quickly) in case you need to call for help.
  

You may decide to only ride when it's above -10*C, or if it hasn't snowed in a few days, and that's absolutely ok! If you choose to only bike in certain conditions, you may not think you need as much preparation for your bike or yourself, but it never hurts to be prepared for much worse weather than you would like to be out in. Being prepared could ultimately save your life. 

Dressing for winter biking is not much different than for other activities, with a few specific areas to focus on. Please choose function over fashion: your comfort and safety are far more important than what other people think of you!

Head protection: 
Keeping your head, in particular the ears, warm is very important, however, stuffing a thick toque on your head can limit your ability to wear a helmet. Falls in the winter are far more likely, due to the surface conditions, so wearing a helmet is crucial to limit head injuries. A regular bicycle helmet is intended only for warm weather, though, and is not made of material that can withstand an impact when it's cold out: opt for a winter helmet, which has less ventilation and often added insulation to keep you warmer as well as safer. 

Face covering: 
When you're biking, you generate your own wind, which can exacerbate already cold air temperature and windchill factor. Covering your face, particularly your nose & cheeks, can protect exposed skin from these extreme temperatures. Opting for sunglasses with UV protection can help reduce eye strain and damage as UV is reflected off the snow. In extreme cold, ski/snowboard goggles can offer protection from cold, wind, and UV light. You're also going to be breathing faster than if you're being still or even compared to walking, which moves air more rapidly in and out of the lungs. When cold air is pulled into your warm lungs, it can cause discomfort or spasms, resulting in coughing, chest pain or triggering asthma. Using a scarf, buff or fleece neck warmer over your nose and mouth can warm the air enough to keep your lungs feeling healthy and working efficiently, so you can oxygenate the muscles which are pushing you along. 

Hands: 
Being mostly stationary on the handlebars, the hands of a winter cyclist are a big concern: cold hands can't operate brakes or gear shifters effectively, and may have challenges with steering, resulting in a crash. Hands take a lot of wind, as well, just like the face and frostbite can cause permanent damage. Mittens allow for fingers to be closer together, keeping them warmer than in gloves. On especially cold and/or windy days, consider bar mitts or windshields to add protection to the hands. 

Body: 
Wearing layers is always important in the winter: it's far easier to remove (or just open) a layer when you get too warm than it is to warm up if you get too cold and don't have anything else to wear. However, being too warm and sweating can also be a concern, as even stopping at a traffic light can result in you getting cold if you're wet. Breathable, moisture-wicking layers are important, as is an exterior layer which is both able to withstand moisture from the outside as well as releasing moisture from inside. Make sure you have a way to carry a change of clothes and layers that you have removed so they don't get lost or ruined. Wearing light colours, using reflective tape or a safety vest or even string lights can improve your visibility on the short days of winter as well. 

Feet:
Like the hands, the feet of a cyclist take a lot of wind and aren't very active while cycling. Further, having to put a foot down at intersections or to prevent a fall can expose the feet to cold snow and/or ice. Pay careful attention to your footwear for winter cycling: it must be able to withstand snow as well as salty water penetration, protect against windchill, and provide adequate traction both on the ground and on the pedals. This may not be the time to use pedals that you clip into, as the attachments may become clogged with snow or ice, making clipping in or out more difficult or impossible. Wearing wool socks is preferred over cotton for warmth and moisture wicking. You can also add extra layers on the outside of your footwear for wind/water resistance and/or heated insoles for added warmth. Take along a clean, dry pair of socks and a change of footwear if possible. 

Be prepared for extra cleaning of your outdoor clothing to remove salt, grime and to replenish water-proofing qualities. Be sure to dry everything very well between uses: having to put on wet mitts or a damp sweater to go back out in the cold is not only uncomfortable but could be dangerous. Hypothermia can occur at +10*C and can quickly incapacitate anyone who isn't prepared. Frostbite can also have serious, long-term consequences. Cold weather is no joke: please take care of yourself. 

During the winter, you should expect to ride slower than you do in the summer. Not just because the roads are often slippery, or have patches of black ice, but because of the temperature: the wind you generate can exacerbate already existing windchill values, resulting in extreme cold exposure on your face, hands, feet and to your lungs. 

Use far more caution when descending hills or making turns than you would in the summer and be aware that manhole covers, road paint (including lane markers and crosswalks), and snow will be slippery. Keeping your speed low helps you avoid dangerous situations, and react to others who made mistakes or encountered something slippery.

You may have a great route for all your summer biking, but it may not be the best choice for winter cycling. Hills, especially, pose a significant hazard to cyclists in the winter, not because you have to work harder, but because of snow & ice buildup, lack of traction, and the potential for black ice. On cold days, you may not want to climb a hill, get all sweaty and then roll down the other side and get cold. Consider changing your route to avoid big hills (up or down), especially known trouble spots where conditions are often poor. 

Check the City of Calgary's Road Conditions Map after a snowfall to see what roads have been plowed and/or sanded, to consider if your route is likely to be safe or even passable. Remember that while it's more work, it may be better traction to ride through snow than on the hard-packed tracks of automobiles. Sanded roads will have more salt and slush, but are less likely to have hard-packed, low-traction snow/ice. You may want to ride on roads that have less traffic in the winter, as a lower volume of automobiles reduces the risk of being involved in a collision but also reduces the amount of exhaust that you will be exposed to. Intersections are commonly the most slippery parts of roads, so choosing routes that avoid busy intersections may be the most comfortable way to go. However, quieter roads may have hard-packed snow on the surface, plow berms and ruts: don't be embarrassed if you need to get off and walk your bike (on the sidewalk) rather than deal with the road surface. Remember to obey all traffic laws, including the restriction on sidewalk cycling and all stop signs, no matter how many people are around to see.

The City of Calgary also has a map of pathways and bikeways that they clear of snow here. For 2023, they are clearing over 750km of pathway, which is amazing! Remember that snow clearing may be imperfect and despite being considered Priority 1, crews may not be able to get to all of the pathways quickly. Expect black ice, especially following chinooks, and use caution. Obeying the speed limits and line markings help to keep you and other pathway users safe. Also remember that pathways that aren't adjacent to roads will have poor or no lighting: use lights for visibility but don't point them in other people's faces. 

Combining modes of transportation can also reduce the risks of winter cycling. Perhaps you can ride to a bus stop or LRT station, or drive part way to your destination to avoid a large hill on your bike. 

Other things to think about for winter cycling:

• you will need to clean your bike, especially the drivetrain, more frequently in the winter, both to remove salt and road gravel, but also to remove water and re-apply lubrication. This will be a much messier job in the winter as you won't be able to hose off your bike outside. 
• bike security is still critical in the winter but cold makes locks more brittle and easier to break, while snow can penetrate key holes or combination dials, freezing them shut. Temperature fluctuations also can wreak havoc on components, so parking indoors may not always be the best option. Ensure your bike is registered with Project 529, add a Shield for extra protection (you can buy them here), use the best lock(s) possible, positioning the key hole in a sheltered postion and try to keep your bike & lock protected from moisture if parked outside.
• riding in cold weather is harder on the body than riding in the summer: ensure your seat is adjusted properly to reduce knee strain, and do some warm up exercises before you hop on, especially if it's really cold outside. 
• being outside is overall far healthier than staying indoors, especially in the winter, but your risk for things like dry skin, sunburn and dehydration increase: use sunscreen on exposed skin (sunscreen chap stick exists; I highly recommend Nivea/Labello brand in general), cover as much skin as possible, and drink plenty of fluids - carry warm tea, coffee or hot chocolate with you in an insulated bottle or travel mug. 
• don't push through if you're feeling too cold, tired or sore or if the conditions are beyond your comfort/ability: put your safety first and get to someplace warm to either rest, warm up or make a plan to get to your destination another way.